Before you start, check the following
- Signs of humidity in your under-plancher
- Equipment, lighting and joints fleeing
- The sub-plan is level depending on the standards of the relevant industry (deviation of 3 mm over 1 m)
- No heating under the floor
- Optimal timber flooring installation conditions (ambient temperature of 15 to 30 degrees)
- humidity levels (between 30 and 70%)
- The appropriate window furniture is installed
Acclimatize your timber flooring
When you have received your timber flooring, it is essential to acclimatize them to the center of the room before installation.
Acclimatization up to a week is essential in particularly humid, cold, humid, hot or dry areas. The advice installed in a wet environment will naturally increase, hence the requirement of acclimatization in areas such as QLD.
Maximum raft sizes
- Floating – (l) 10m x (w) 8m
- Direct stick – (l) 16m x (w) 12m
Ok, it’s time to start installing, let’s take it step by step
- The preselected boards that mix best with matching Scotland, skirts and fillings.
- Stagger Boards to ensure more favorable soil appearance. When installing random length boards, make sure that the offbeat length is at least 20 cm. The end boards must be greater than 30 cm in length.
- Check the door and door clearances to ensure that the doors will move freely without contacting the ground surface.
- Although floating floors can be installed in any direction, as a rule, they are generally installed perpendicular to a window. The timber flooring installation of the floor parallel to the longest wall tends to enlarge a room.
Step 1. First board, first row. Place a spacer 10 to 15 mm thick on the left and position the board against the wall. Later, after 3 rows, you can easily position the floor covering against the front wall with 10-15 mm spacers.
Step 2. Second board, first row. Press the short end of the next floor at an angle compared to the first, then lie down, complete the first row. The boards can also be slightly tapped without lifting.
STEP 3 At the end of the first row, place a spacer of 10 to 15 mm on the wall and cut the length of the last board to adapt.
STEP 4. For a clean cut, the upper surface must face down when using a jigsaw, or the circular hand saw and up when using a hand saw or a transverse cut saw.
Step 5. Second row, first board. Minimum length 300 mm. Place a spacer against the wall.
Step 6. The minimum distance between the short ends of the parallel boards must not be less than 200 mm.
STEP 7. Place the floor at an angle against the floor in the previous row, press the front and fold at the same time. A rubber mallet and a tapping block may be necessary.
Step 8. Second board, second row. Place the short end of the floor at an angle against the previously installed floor. Fold down. The boards can also be used without lifting.
STEP 9. Lift the floor (with the floor of the floor previously installed in the same row) slightly at the top (about 30 mm) and push it against the row at the front. Push down when the boards are positioned closely together.
STEP 10. After 2-3 rows, adjust the distance to the front wall by placing the spacers of 10-15 mm
Step 11. If the wall is uneven, the floors must be adapted to its contours. Mark the floors with the wall contour. Do not forget to leave a space of 10 to 15 mm on the wall.
STEP 12. To remove the first row, lift the floor for a few centimeters and press the seal. Cut the boards if necessary.
STEP 13. Reinstall the first line from left to right. Press the boards against the edges of the floors which are already in position, with the first band.
Step 14. Last line. Minimum width 30 mm. Remember that the wall space is 10 to 15 mm.
POINT! Place a spacer before measuring. Cut the panels lengthwise and sit down.